Skopje
Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, stretches along the Vardar River. At its heart lie the ancient citadel, the old Albanian bazaar, museums, and national monuments along the riverbanks. It is the largest city in Macedonia, home to over half a million people—more than a quarter of the country’s total population of 2.2 million. Skopje can be seen as a microcosm of Macedonia, and it is well worth spending at least two days exploring the city and its surroundings.
The city was founded by the Illyrian Dardanian tribes in the 3rd century BC. It occupies a strategic location on the Vardar River, along the main route between Kosovo and the Balkan interior on one side, and Thessaloniki and the coastal regions on the other. In Roman times, it was known as Scupi and was located a few kilometers west of the present-day citadel. During the Byzantine era, Scupi served as the capital of the Dardan region and the seat of a bishop, boasting large churches. However, a devastating earthquake in the early 6th century destroyed the city. Emperor Justinian subsequently rebuilt it at a new location, where the citadel now stands.
In the early 9th century, Skopje was conquered by the expanding Bulgarian Empire, and toward the end of that century, Tsar Samuel made it his capital for 20 years. In 992, the capital was moved to Ohrid. Over the following centuries, Skopje changed hands multiple times, passing between Bulgarians, Byzantines, independent rulers, and Serbs. By the late 13th century, it was seized by the rising Serbian Empire, which transformed it into a major trading center. Its importance grew to such an extent that in 1346, Tsar Stefan Dušan declared it his capital and was crowned Emperor of the Serbs and Greeks there. At the end of the 14th century, Skopje was conquered by the Ottomans, who preserved its regional significance.
During Ottoman rule, Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror built a stone bridge over the Vardar River, marking a period of growth and development. Jews began arriving after their expulsion from Spain at the end of the 15th century, joined by Armenians, Turks, and other minorities. Meanwhile, Christians were gradually pushed out of influential positions. In the 16th century, some of the city’s churches were destroyed, but economic prosperity continued, and the bazaars expanded into international trade hubs. Khans, bathhouses, Sufi centers, madrasas, and mosques were built throughout the city, which grew to a population of around 50,000—significant for that time. This period of prosperity ended with the wars and destruction of the late 17th century.
The Austrians briefly liberated Skopje in 1689, but their occupation resulted in widespread destruction, reducing the population to just 10,000. After a year, the Austrians withdrew, and the Ottomans took revenge on their local supporters. The Macedonian leader Petar Karposh was captured and executed by impalement on the Stone Bridge. Today, a statue of him stands near the bridge, as he is considered a national hero. Shortly before the fire that ravaged the city, Skopje had a vibrant Jewish community. One of its most notable figures was the mystic Nathan of Gaza, who died and was buried in Skopje in 1680. His burial site, however, remains unknown.
In the 19th century, with the Tanzimat reforms granting rights to minorities in the Ottoman Empire, the revival of Serbia and Bulgaria, and the influx of Muslim refugees into Macedonia, Skopje began to grow again. Modernization contributed to this development. In 1877, Skopje was designated the capital of the Kosovo Vilayet. During this period, the Christian population began rebuilding churches and establishing schools. The first church to be restored was the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, consecrated in 1835.
In 1912, Skopje was liberated from Ottoman rule by the Serbian army. This was accompanied by the expulsion and killing of Turkish and Albanian Muslims, as well as the destruction of entire quarters. Skopje became part of Serbia and, later, Yugoslavia, for nearly 80 years—with brief interruptions during the World Wars due to Bulgarian occupation. One of the darkest episodes occurred in 1943, when the city’s Jewish community was exterminated during the Bulgarian occupation. Today, a memorial museum to Macedonian Jews stands in central Skopje.
The defining event for modern Skopje was the 1963 earthquake, which destroyed much of the city and claimed more than a thousand lives. A massive reconstruction effort followed, supported by Yugoslavia and the international community. At the time, Tito’s Yugoslavia was a leader of the Non-Aligned Movement and enjoyed global support. Renowned Japanese architect Kenzō Tange was commissioned to design the new city, and the Polish government donated the new art museum above the fortress. The concert hall was built with contributions from 35 countries, earning Skopje the title “City of International Solidarity.” In gratitude, the city named streets after donor countries and erected monuments in memory of the earthquake’s victims. One of the most symbolic is the old railway station clock, forever frozen at the moment the quake struck.
In 1992, Macedonia became an independent state. After the year 2000, the Macedonian government launched ambitious construction projects in Skopje. Some aimed to restore structures lost in the earthquake, while others sought to reinforce a distinct Macedonian national identity. These projects included the construction of monumental buildings, museums, and institutes in neoclassical style, along with numerous statues, squares, triumphal arches, and fountains. Together, they transformed the city’s appearance and strengthened its symbolic role as the heart of an independent Macedonia.
A tour of Skopje can begin with a walk along the river, followed by a visit to the alleys of the Albanian Bazaar in the Old City and the citadel.
Skopje is a divided city: north of the Vardar River, the population is predominantly Albanian and Muslim, with parts of the Old City still preserving the appearance of an Ottoman town. South of the river, the population is mainly Macedonian and Christian, expressing its identity through large illuminated crosses installed on the surrounding mountains. The most prominent of these is the Millennium Cross on Mount Vodno, considered the largest in the world, overlooking Skopje from the south.
In the heart of the city flows the Vardar River, along which a newly developed promenade with sculptures extends from the Gocev Delchev Bridge to the foot of the citadel. Lining this promenade is a series of buildings housing cultural institutions, museums, and important landmarks. Closest to the bridge is the National Theater, followed by the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle for Independence and the Jewish Holocaust Museum. A short distance along the river stands the iconic Stone Bridge, beyond which are the new Archaeological Museum and the Macedonian Constitutional Court, both housed in grand neoclassical buildings.
Further along lies Mother Teresa Square, surrounded by buildings in a modern, unconventional style, including the new Philharmonic Hall and the Opera and Ballet Theater, which was donated by 35 countries after the earthquake. At the center of the square stands a building designed as a classical rotunda, which serves as the office of the Chief Prosecutor of Macedonia. Continuing a bit further along the river and crossing the road leads to the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin, followed by the Macedonian Academy of Sciences and Arts.
The southern bank of the Vardar is lined with commercial and office buildings, hotels, and cafés. At its center lies Macedonia Square—the largest and most prominent square in modern Skopje—serving as a venue for exhibitions and public events. The square features an elegant integrated fountain, above which towers a statue of Alexander the Great on horseback, and an avenue that leads to a massive triumphal arch. A pedestrian street extends southward from the square, and after two blocks, it reaches Mother Teresa Square, home to a museum, a church, and a tower dedicated to her legacy. Mother Teresa was born in Skopje to a Catholic Albanian family, making her a revered figure among both Albanians and Macedonians.
Crossing the ancient Stone Bridge to the north brings you to a square opposite the Jewish Museum, which features a large fountain and statues of Macedonian women caring for children. Further north stands another grand fountain topped by a statue of Philip of Macedon. Next to this is the 19th-century Church of St. Demetrius, where a remarkable event recently occurred: the halo around the head of the saint in one of the icons reportedly began to glow with light. If you don’t believe it—come and see for yourself. On the other side of the Philip of Macedon statue and fountain stands the Great Hammam of Daut Pasha, a 15th-century historical monument that now serves as an art museum. From here, the roads lead into the Albanian Bazaar.
