Cocev Kamen

Cocev Kamen is often called the Balkan Stonehenge. It is the oldest stone circle in the world, more than 9,000 years old, located in northeastern Macedonia. It consists of a sacred rock the size of a small hill and protruding stones scattered across the surrounding hills, aligned with the sun, moon, and stars at different times of the year. It is not a classic, orderly stone circle like Stonehenge (which was built 4,000 years later), but rather a vast, scattered stone circle that incorporates the natural terrain, with stones positioned far apart from each other and from the center.

What makes Cocev Kamen unique is the large rock hill at the center of the vast circle, rising 50 meters above its surroundings. Apparently, in ancient times, the entire rock was enclosed by a fence that separated the sacred from the profane. A processional road leads from the surrounding fields to the northern side of the rock hill.

The rock hill was extensively carved and shaped to accommodate religious worship, transforming it into an impressive three-story complex. At the bottom, there is a semicircular theater with two rows of seats oriented toward the sunrise. From there, steps lead to a rock-hewn semicircular terrace that overlooks a sacred stage with a view of the surrounding hills, where standing stones are positioned on top. A seating area is carved into the side of the stage, and only when sitting in it do the stones on the horizon become fully visible. Not far from this point, there is a niche for a statue and an offering altar.

The terrace has special acoustics, and many Goddess figurines, as well as knives decorated with her image, have been found there. It may have been a place for preparing sacrifices. Steps lead from the terrace to a rock platform at the top of the hill, where small altars were found. According to researchers, these were used for burning incense and presenting offerings. The platform is an open rock surface measuring one hundred square meters, from which the entire surroundings can be seen. On one side of it, a hewn rock wall contains a niche that likely held a statue of the Goddess in ancient times. Hewn steps lead from the platform to a carved pool of water, which was probably used for religious purposes.

Small crosses, possibly nine thousand years old, are carved in a few places around the rocky hill, which has excited researchers, particularly in Macedonia, a country that takes pride in 2,000 years of Christianity. Many amulets and clay models of primitive temples have been found at Cocev Kamen. In various locations, small bowls and cup-like depressions have been carved into the rock. According to researchers, worship at the site began about 8,500 years ago and continued until about 3,000 years ago. Some of the megaliths—the surrounding standing stones—were shaped like crescent moons, while others were carved into various unclear shapes.

In different areas of the rocky hill, ancient rock paintings in red ochre can be found, including depictions of hands, figures in prayer positions, and geometric shapes. These are among the earliest known examples of such artwork in the world. According to laboratory studies, they date back at least 6,000 years, to the Chalcolithic period. The paintings were discovered in small, cave-like niches around the hill.

Visitors to the site would bring ceramic vessels, break them, and leave some of the shards in place while taking the rest home with them, thereby creating an energetic connection with the sacred location. This is known because ceramic shards from the same vessels have been found both at Cocev Kamen and in houses in the surrounding settlements.

The Cocev Kamen site is located 25 km from the town of Kratovo in eastern Macedonia, or a similar distance from the city of Kumanovo, and is currently accessible and managed by the Macedonian government. At the entrance, there is a small museum dedicated to the site, and from there, a footpath leads to the rock itself.

From Cocev Kamen, it is about an hour’s drive to the Bulgarian border. I recommend completing the Goddess Route by following the Ancient Civilizations route, which appears in the book Beauty of the Rose about Bulgaria.