Mount Tomorr

Mount Tomorr is the holiest site for the Bektashis in Albania, prominent above its surroundings and visible from anywhere in southern Albania, a kind of local Olympus rising to a height of nearly 2,500 meters. The mountain has been sacred since ancient times, and the name probably represents an ancient Illyrian deity.

According to folklore, Tomorr is a giant with a white beard who guards the city of Berat at his feet. The mountain’s sanctity has been passed on to Christians, who ascend it on the day of the Assumption of Mary (August 15), and to Bektashis, who believe in the sanctity of Abbas Ali, the brother of Hussein. Abbas Ali was killed in the Battle of Karbala and, according to tradition, later came to Albania with his decapitated head in his hand and raised the flag of true Islam on the highest mountaintop in the new land.

On the bald summit of Mount Tomorr stands a circular structure perched on the edge of a cliff hundreds of meters high, within which is the tomb of Abbas Ali. This is a pilgrimage site where tens of thousands of people gather every year between August 20–25.

On the last step before the summit is a huge green-painted tekke, the gathering place of all the important figures during the August festival. Inside are a reception hall, an audience hall, guest rooms, photographs of visits to the site, a kitchen for pilgrims, and everything one would expect in a tekke. The tekke can be reached by a paved road from Berat (about an hour and a half drive). From this last step, a steep dirt road ascends through alpine vegetation—such as crocuses, wheat fields, and even scattered snowdrifts—to the summit. Just before the tekke, there is a small chapel by the side of the road where you can see the hoofprint of Abbas Ali’s horse imprinted in the rock.

At the foot of Mount Tomorr is the impressive Osumi River Canyon, where the river flows for more than 20 kilometers between steep rock walls. This is an ideal place for rafting and water-based excursions.

Abbas Ali

Abbas Ali is the half-brother of Imams Hassan and Hussein—martyred in the Battle of Karbala. Ali (his father) and Muhammad knew in advance the bitter fate that awaited Hussein, so they asked God to give him a brother from another woman, who would be his helper. This was Abbas Ali. Abbas is part of the holy family. It is said that he first opened his eyes only when Hussein held him in his arms, and that he always saw himself as Hussein’s helper, ready to sacrifice his life for him.

Abbas Ali was the standard-bearer in the Battle of Karbala. His task was to bring water to the family, who were dying of thirst—and he did so without drinking himself. During this mission, he fell from his post. The enemy abused his body and decapitated him, but this did not prevent him from reaching—headless (or rather, with his head in his hand)—the highest mountain in Albania, where he raised the flag of Karbala, the flag of true faith.

His death is a story of heroism and sorrow. He set out to bring water to Hussein’s household and reached the Euphrates River. He filled a water jug and carried it back without engaging in combat, because Hussein had instructed that their purpose in Karbala was not to fight, but to sacrifice themselves for the faith. Shiites believe that had he fought, Abbas would have won.

On the way back, however, the enemy overpowered him. First, they cut off one of his hands; he continued holding the water jug in the other. Then they managed to cut off his other hand from behind, and he carried the water in his teeth. The enemy rained arrows on him, one of which split the water jug. In despair, Abbas retreated toward the river. A hail of arrows struck him, and he fell from his horse onto his face. Only then did the flag he held fall.

Hussein came to comfort him in his final moments. Abbas’s last request was to see Hussein’s face and to be called, just once, by the name “brother.” Abbas died crying, “O Hussein, O brother, O my Imam.” He was buried where he fell from his horse, and a great mosque and shrine were built in his honor, which now serves as a place of pilgrimage for millions of Shiites. Even the river changed its course to surround his grave.

However, the Albanians have their own version of what happened after the battle. At some point, the tradition developed that he was buried on the summit of Mount Tomorr. This may relate to the belief that Abbas Ali is the patron saint of the Ghazi—the warriors who return successfully from battle—because of the many battles in which he returned victorious, especially the Battle of Siffin, where he particularly excelled.

Albania Tomorr mountain